Divya Hasti

Have you experienced a moment where your chain of thoughts go silent as if they have lost their way, to give you a few moments of solace?

Standing at the Gurudongmar Lake in Sikkim, the highest lake in the country, that’s what I felt.

Gurudongmar Lake is popular for being a low oxygen and low temperature zone, given that it stands at 17800 feet. But, I was racing with a strange sense of energy sitting on a rock without a jacket and no heaviness in my chest, a feeling that I had forgotten in all the uncertainty the past couple of years brewed.

In this Blog

The Legends of Gurudongmar Lake

How to reach the Highest Lake of India

Practical Information and Tips

Legends of the Gurudongmar Lake

I was staring into the teal waters of the lake and the peak adorned with the season’s first snow. With winds blowing to my left, I saw a calmness engulf my being. Just then something caught my eye.

When rest of the lake started to freeze, one section did not. I wondered why. I let the question lurk around as I thought of the roads that got me here. Postcard views that seemed like a painting – from Lachen via Thangu Valley with clouds rolling over mountains, Teesta river gently making its way in between, majectic Kalapathar range showing a bit of her in all the rawness.

A five hour back breaking soul filling journey later, I arrived at Lachung to head to Yumthang valley the following day. But a serious case of landslide cancelled that plan and routed back to Gangtok. As I approached Chungthang, the driver pulled the jeep aside at a garage nearby for repair. I wandered off to the tiny lanes of the village, stopped at a shop to buy choco pie and saw Romeo, the dog, just as sweet.

I got talking to the lady, and asked her the question that was tucked away – why did the lake not freeze? Over cutting vegetables, she told me a local legend. In the 8th century when Guru Padmasambhava visited the lake, the locals complained of not having water due to the lake freezing in winter. He then touched a part of the lake, leaving the people with a perennial source of water. To this day that part of the lake never freezes, come winter or worse.

She then vanished into the kitchen and got me a warm cup of tea and Zhero, a traditional sweet of Sikkim.

Sipping chai, I heard her say that they were trying to conceive a child for eight years but with no luck. They offered prayers at the lake, and were then blessed with a child. Many childless couples are said to visit the Gurudongmar Lake in the hope of having their prayers answered and bearing a child. Isn’t this the beauty of beliefs, showing their connection to the nature and divine. To each their own!

I thanked her and walked away smiling, thinking the jeep calling into trouble turned to be a blessing in disguise. For I had my answer and an honest conversation with a local.

Have you had such chance encounters with locals? Share them in the comments.

How to Reach the Highest Lake of India

Gurudongmar Lake is situated in the Mangan district of North Sikkim.

Fly to Bagdogra Airport in West Bengal and take a rickshaw or a cab to Siliguri bus station which is 30 minutes away. From there you could take a shared taxi to Gangtok, which should cost you 400-500 INR (4$), or a private cab which will cost you upwards of 5000 INR.

From Gangtok here are the options to reach the Lake.

Option 1:

Take a shared 4 by 4 jeep tour which includes transport, accommodation and food for 2 nights and 3 days. The route taken is Gangtok-Lachen-Gurundongmar-Lachung-Yumthang-Gangtok with overnight stays in Lachen and Lachung.

If you are travelling solo and on a budget, this is your best bet. It can be booked at the

Cost: ~4000 per person.

Option 2:

Reserve a private vehicle, which costs 24K to 30K. If you are travelling as a group, this is a comfortable option.

Option 3:

If you own a car or a bike, ride up to the lake. Please make sure to check the road safety conditions and be responsible and mindful, given the altitude.

Practical Information

1. The tour/vehicle can be reserved at the city centre bus station from any of the local tour operators. The vehicles usually depart from here. You will be informed on where to board a day prior.

2. A permit is required to visit the lake. The tour operator can help you secure one upon giving them two recent passport size photos and a copy of aadhar card. Be sure to send them a day in advance.

3. Unfortunately, foreign nationals cannot visit Gurudongmar Lake. They can go till Thangu Valley, upon getting a special permit and be accompanied by a local guide.

4. Gurudongmar Lake is a low oxygen zone. You could experience difficulty breathing, or be hit by altitude sickness. Make sure to keep yourself hydrated and take medicines when required. Chewing gums help to an extent. If you have respiratory issues, it is better avoided to go here.

5. Do not litter, carry the waste back with you.

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It is sure to leave you astounded by its mystical beauty. So, will you go here?