Divya Hasti

If you told me I’d starve in Turkey being a vegetarian, I would have believed you. But after travelling there for a month, I can now safely say I didn’t just survive, but relished everything the country had to offer. Though it is predominantly a meat eating country, Turkey surprisingly has many vegetarian and vegan options one can indulge in. Turkey’s culinary indulgence was just the break I needed from having bell peppers and spinach in the name of vegetables in most parts of Europe. Here’s everything I ate to my heart’s content, and you should try out too on your next trip to Turkey.

Lentil Soup (Mercimek Çorbası)

Mostly eaten with bread and served with a lemon, this appetiser hits the perfect notes as you slurp it down. Çorbası was how I started most of my lunches in the country, and it gave my taste buds the comforting warmth it needed. Made with red lentils, this dish is naturally vegan too. Sometimes maybe a chicken or a meat broth could be added (as I have been told), so be sure to tell them in advance! Being a popular starter and common in the Turkish household, this is available at every restaurant.

Pide, the Turkish Pizza

Naples in Italy is synonymous with being the Pizza haven, but has anyone told you about Pide, the Turkish Pizza? It comes with a thin crust, topped with cheese and vegetables (of course there are meat options too). Unlike the normal pizza that comes in a round shape, this comes in an oval form served with a salad, and is equally delicious. The toppings can vary with the region, but this has a special place on all the Turkish menus, and in my heart too. My mouth drooled, as I typed this away.

Börek

The Ottomans may not have been loved everywhere they ruled, but we definitely have got to thank them for Börek! A pastry that is wrapped or twisted (that is what ‘bürmek’ in Turkish means) with spinach, cheese, potato, or meat. A common sight at all the bakeries, it is crispy and tender, and is available for as low as 30 to 40 Turkish Lira. Also, Börek is versatile – I had it as a quick bite for breakfast and for a meal too. If you want a flavourful filling, take the spinach and cheese one. You can thank me later! Borek is a staple, available at all the bakeries. As far as my experience goes, it was best eaten at smaller outlets.

Gözleme

When I would wake up after right before noon, and it’s too late for breakfast and too early for lunch, Gözleme was the rescue my stomach gurgled for. This is a Turkish flatbread made with a simple dough of flour, water, and salt, rolled thin and filled with cheese, spinach, minced meat, or potatoes. I can see you raising an eyebrow wondering how this is different from Börek. The dough and preparation makes all the difference. While Börek is often fried or baked and is made with thinner sheets of dough (the one used for baklava), Gözleme is griddled on a pan.

Kuru Fasulye

This Turkish White Bean Stew is that perfect combination with Pilav (rice). My lunch on most days was a humble portion of rice served with Kuru Fasulye, a bowl of Lentil Soup and a salad. This is a hit combination with the locals too. You will find this on my menu when you walk into any restaurant. When you mention you don’t meat, this will be one of dishes they will bring to your table, right away. It can be a bit bland, for Indian taste buds, so help yourself with chilli flakes. 😉

Çiğ Köfte

On a rainy evening in Selcuk, while hunting down for vegetarian food, I stopped at a new shop, which still had the decorative white and red balloons. He gently handed me a Çiğ Köfte wrap. Though traditionally made from raw ground beef, the vegetarian version is made from bulgur wheat, tomato paste, and an aromatic mix of spices, that hits the right spot. While most places served it as little balls, some places also serve them as a durum (wrap), with cabbage leaves. While I savoured every bit of this spicy delicacy, they offered me a cup of hot Turkish tea.

Sarma – Stuffed Grape Leaves

The vine leaves stuffed with rice, bulgur, spices (and sometimes meat – so be sure to check), this dish is light and comforting. Common across Turkey and the Balkans, the preparation varies by country and region. But what doesn’t change is how good it tastes! If I am being completely honest, I would rank the one I had in Greece a bit higher than the one from Turkey. Maybe it was the dash of the Greek olive oil and lemons.

Apple Tea

As someone who doesn’t usually drink tea or coffee, Turkey’s Apple Tea had me gulping it down 3 times a day. I finally understood the addiction behind these beverages. I first had when the restaurant owner suggested I drink it, and I couldn’t have been more thankful to him. I went raving about it to my host in Selcuk, and the next minute I saw him get me a cup of hot Apple Tea from the kitchen. Over the next two days, every time I passed by him, he would get me a cup, and I would smile like child handed with a sugar candy. I regret not getting a pack back home. While Apple Tea definitely stood out for me, the Turks are loyal fans of their Turkish Black Tea, which I quite liked too. You will see them drinking many glasses through the day, munching sunflower seeds. Unlike India, their tea doesn’t have milk, so it is naturally vegan.

Desserts

The first name that would have struck you is, Baklava. It is hands down, worth every bite and penny, but Turkey has so many other desserts you can relish. Try the Cold Baklava at the popular outlets Faruk Güllüoglu in Istanbul, or at Hafiz Mustafa. I tried at the former, and they sure live up to the hype. A few other desserts I loved trying – Kadayif Dolmasi, made of walnut fillings in a semolina roll; Sutlaç, a rice pudding; Kunefe, a cheese pastry; Kaymakli Kayısı, dried apricots in sugar syrup and buffalo milk. though Bakalva is available across the country, nothing comes close enough to Gaziantep’s Baklava. Take a bite, and you will know what I mean. My host in Antalya told me the right way to eat it is to flip it and eat from the bottom.

Bonus

A series of Google reviews led me to ŞİŞKO Selçuk, and the Chef’s Plate was a absolute delight. A portion of rice, chickpeas, broccoli, spinach, and a boiled stem of a plant I didn’t recognise, was clearly the best meal I had in Turkey. I liked the mixed vegetable soup I had here, of all the ones I tasted in the country.

The Turks love their pistachios, and most of their chocolates, desserts have them, and being a fan, I didn’t complain. I saw myself binge eating these chocolates as quick snacks on the go. Oh and I found myself snorting on the Yogurt and Mint flavoured Lays. A spicy, tangy packaged drink labelled fermented purple carrot juice was a banger.

Don’t forget to treat yourself to Ayran, Turkey’s version of Indian buttermilk. It was the perfect way to end my meal.

The next time someone tells you you will have a hard time finding food without meat in Turkey, you will have an answer to fight that off, and indulge your taste buds in a variety of rich flavours Turkey serves.

Afiyet Olsun! (bon appetit)